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Location: Mentor, Ohio, United States
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Item: 155464945785
eBay ⦁ *****SEND OFFERS***** If it goes thru, there is a good chance it will auto accept, or I will accept it when I see it. Ebay requires a minimum Buy It Now price in order to qualify for the ebay shipping rate…That doesn’t mean I can’t accept lower offers. So again SEND OFFERS, if you’re interested in something. Especially the Sports Cards!!! Once more SEND OFFERS!!! ⦁ Most of the coins/tokens/currency/proof sets etc. come from my late fathers collection. I admit to being a novice in the hobby, but I have been studying, doing my research and learning along the way. As with the cards, always make an offer if you think I am too high. I know I have been taken advantage of in the past, and I am trying to avoid that again. Send me a message, make an offer, explain your side as if you think I am too high. I get my prices from other sales on here, and from some other sources. ****(I do cross post a lot of my items, so they may disappear without warning from time to time)****. ⦁ YOU DO THE GRADING. I am not a professional grader. I will do my best to list obvious flaws. Most cards 20 years and older may show some wear with age. No cards were EVER maliciously damaged. The same goes in regards to coins and currency. You do the grading. NOW, the few graded cards and coins I have come across and do list, are exactly as I received them. As most collectors know, some of the 90s cards ended up bricking during storage. I’ve purchased a few collections at estate sales, and some were just like this. I did my best to separate these without damaging them, but there is residue on some of them from the card they were stuck too. If they were too far gone, I tossed them into a separate box, and those I sell randomly when I fill said box. ⦁ All of my lots are what you see is what you get. I don’t do the “random” lots. Where you think you’re getting one thing, and you’re getting a bunch of common duplicates. WATCH OUT FOR THOSE LISTINGS. 99% of the time, you ARE getting scammed. YES, there will be commons, and there will be stars, rookies and hall of famers. I’m far from being an expert. Who I think is a super star, you might think is a common. Who I think is a common, you might think is a super star. Personally, I have my favorite players, and they are super stars to me. Clemente, Stargell, Moreno, McCutcheon, Stennett, Parker, Lemiuex, Crosby (see a pattern there?) ⦁ I will occasionally toss the poor to fair cards into a priority box, and once it fills, I will list that. ⦁ I will do my best to answer any and all questions. I have nearly a million cards, and an unknown amount of coins, and its taking time to put them all on here. I try to add a new one, each time one sells. (on the first Sunday of each month) I list everyone that I have, I don’t limit it to the above mentioned superstars only. I have had relatives, friends, co-workers of certain “common” players purchase from me. Even had one player, actually buy his own cards. ⦁ ****SHIPPING POLICY IS AS FOLLOWS**** ⦁ CARDS: 1st two (2) lots will be at normal price. (The weight of the package, takes them into first class packaging). Each additional lot will be at .50 each. If you buy 25 or more card lots, then the free shipping comes in(more will be coming, I’m gonna try and add 50 items each Sunday, until I get near 900-1000, its just to time consuming to try and do it all at once) they will be free shipping (minus any offers accepted). You will pay the two highest shipping rates, and then the .50 kicks in. Some top loaders may have been previously used. It just doesn’t make sense to throw them away, as they still do their job of protecting the card when I ship it. “Lots” that are 4 – 8 or so cards will be put in penny sleeve, inside an envelope, inside a hard envelope. Lots that are 3 cards or less, will be put in a penny sleeve, then a top loader, then into an envelope. I will adjust accordingly to try and provide extra protection for vintage cards. (Pre-1980) Both will be secure and packaged safely. Ebay’s shipping method is only good up to 3 ounces. and the thickness can not excede an eighth of an inch. ⦁ COINS: 1st two (2) purchases will be at normal shipping price. Each additional purchase will be at .50 each. I reserve the right to change this, if they are proof sets and the total weight goes above and beyond this. You will pay the two highest shipping rates, and then the .50 kicks in. ⦁ AUCTIONS: 1st two (2) wins will be at normal shipping price. Each additional win is at .50 each. You will pay the two highest shipping rates, and then the .50 kicks in. The cards will be in a penny sleeve, wthin a top loader, into an envelope and then a hard envelope. The coins will be placed into a standard envelope, within a thicker or padded envelope. At times I may upgrade these to first class packaging, at my own discretion/expense. ⦁ My shipping charge includes, all handling, and all expenses involved in shipping. Up to and including, postage, penny sleeves, top loaders, envelopes, hard envelopes, bubble wrap, coin hard and plastic sleeves, etc etc etc. No one has ever complained about my shipping methods. Shipping charges yes, but I’m not here to lose money, and I put great expense in protecting the cards so you receive them, exactly as I send them out. You can see by my reviews/feedback how well I pack and ship things. My regular job is at the Post Office, and I see just how horribly some people package things. That’s not me. They are all shipped out, at the latest, the day following when payment is received. Unless of course that day is a Sunday or a Holiday. ⦁ As with every coin or proof set on here, I can not validate any endorsement/grading on the packaging/sleeves/any writing. Except that its the coin, currency, card or set thats up for sale/auction. You do the grading. ⦁ The cards are mostly from my own personal collection, and from others collections that I have picked up along the way. I have been collecting since the early 70’s. I will readily admit, I don’t know much about basketball and hockey, except who the biggest stars are or were. I don’t watch either sport, so I’m not all that familiar with the players, and I don’t have nearly as many of those cards as I do football and especially baseball. So if my asking price is too high, simply send me a message explaining why. I will, however, accept special requests. If there is a player you’re interested in, simply send me a message and I will do my best to list that player in my next cycle (IF I have them). I generally create new listings the first Sunday of each month. Just please don’t give me a list of a 100 players, or have me looking for specific cards, unless you’re willing to wait a few months, or longer. Ebay does have limits to how many I can have listed at a time, and I like to keep it a managable size. I had over 1600 listings for the longest time, and honestly, I had a difficult time keeping track of everything. I have a good system (or I like to think so), and I have finally alphabetized nearly 750,000 cards in the big four sports. ⦁ Certificates of authenticity are available when they apply . I will always state if it includes the box/original packaging/COA. ⦁ Almost everything is also cross posted on other sites as well, so they may disappear/get pulled without notice. ⦁ Payment is expected within 24 hours of auction win, or if I have accepted your offer. Ebay automatically cancels the sale after 3 days. If you haven’t reached out to me, to get an extension. I will let the cancellation proceed, and you will be blocked from bidding on my auctions, and making purchases from me. ⦁ Any questions or special requests just ask. Sometimes I can check my messages during the day, but I can’t send additional photos until I get home from my regular job. Here are a few more things: ⦁ I NEVER use a stock photo!!! ⦁ ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS check a seller’s feedback. ⦁ A HUGE lot is not 10 -100 cards. In my opinion it has to be at least 500 cards to be considered huge. Unless, of course, that card is like an 8×10, then yes it’s huge…. ⦁ Cards 20 – 30 years old are NOT Vintage. So no, I’m sorry but cards from the 1990’s are NOT vintage…Even ebay lists vintage as pre-1980..I’ll extend it personally a bit up to 1985 or so… ⦁ I don’t care if you are a dealer or have overhead. So do I. I won’t discount something because you have to make a profit off of it. I have a bottom line on nearly everything thats listed. See above mentioned “Watched Items” discussion. ⦁ My regular job is at the Post Office. I will do my absolute best to get every sale out the following business day. Of course, this excludes Sundays and Holidays. If you do have a larger purchase, or any special requests, it may take longer. But so far, shipping has never been delayed. Also, again I work for the Post Office, I realize things are a little slow right now. We are extremely short handed and working anywhere between 10 and 14 hours, 6 days a week. If something doesn’t arrive in two days, be patient. If it isn’t there within a month (sometimes, things get misdirected). I will give a full refund, but in order to protect myself from scam buyers. I generally block that person. I will, however, move any future sales into a package status with USPS tracking, that will obviously bump the shipping price up and I will need to be contacted prior to you attempting to bid on an auction item or make a purchase. So I can remove you from the blocked list. (DO NOT PAY until I send you an invoice, with the updated shipping method and charges, the sale will be cancelled if you do otherwise).
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